Worth knowing about
chain Lubrication

FLC 1010 chain spray

02-04-2007 | Originally brought by Peter Rahbek /

Translated by LUBRAL

Regular Chain Lubrication

Only few people doubt the value of regular chain lubrication. The chain is a noisy and especially critical component in the transmission of the motorcycle. The poorly lubricated chain trembles violently and it can easily loose a lot of energy from the engine in power loss compared to a well lubricated chain.

The power loss occurs when a colossal waste heat develops due to friction between the dry contact surfaces both inside and outside a chain that is not lubricated sufficiently. So as the chain breaks down from within, the front and rear sprockets of the motorcycle are also torn hard. And if you continue to drive the unmounted secondary transmission, you will find a few thousand kilometers in need of a new chain kit (ie chain + chainwheel). It usually costs between DKK 1500 and DKK 4500 depending on the type and quality.

We recommend choosing the best possible quality because the wear resistance of a high quality chain and corresponding good sprocket is often better than the wear resistance of a second wiper. But the power loss is also clearly inferior:

As a rule, a few horsepower's power loss is considered in a well-stocked quality chain on a medium-sized MC in the 100 hp class, while a low grade chain and sprocket easily eats 4-7 hp on the same machine.

Far worse, however, is the completely unmoved, overweight, rusty and almost worn chain. It eats easily up to 10-15 hp and makes a significant contribution to the noise development of the motorcycle, especially the high-frequency sound energy (which really generates people nearby) can reach levels similar to a violent rock concert!

There are several hundred different types of chain sprays on the market and they can be broadly divided into three main groups: The oil-based sprays, the wax-based and the chemical ones.

The pure chemical chain sprays, the smallest group, operate with a form of "impregnation" of the metal surface, and their friction-reducing effect can even be extremely effective - at least as long as the treatment is not worn. On the other hand, they do not quite bump into noise.

The wax-based spraying agents are the most antifouling and provided they are sprayed while the chain is operating heat (ie after a longer trip at high speed) and subsequently allowed to settle and solidify, so they usually keep the lubrication effect for a long time - preferably 500 - 1500 km.

Wax-based lubricants can lubricate very well, but they stick a lot, and therefore have a dull ability to retain dirt, sand and dust, which can subsequently slide hard on the bearing and contact surfaces of the chain.

Therefore, the use of wax based lubricants require regular cleaning with special means before the chain is re-lubricated.

The oil-based lubricants have a dull ability to be slipped off during use and therefore swine a little more. On the other hand, much of the dirt leaves the moving parts together with the oil, and therefore you can smear for longer periods without experiencing the utmost need for thorough cleaning of the chain itself. However, the chain case and the surrounding around the front sprocket must be cleaned frequently.

At the MC Base we have achieved the best experiences with chain sprays combining chemical lubrication with a thin oil that penetrates into the important inner parts of the chain. For example, FLC 1010 from the Danish company Lubral.

Here, as a rule, you should brush the hot chain every time you get home or have driven more than 100-200 km.

Our main message comes here: Rather smear frequently and quite a bit, than rarely and more. That way, a good quality chain kit can easily hold 25-40,000 km.

The ritual of the daily chain lubrication after the trip is also a good opportunity to check the sprocket, chain and rear tire after the machine is always ready and in top condition the next time you go out and roll.

Good trip…


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